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Introducing Cambodia
Show mapClose map .There’s a magic
about Cambodia that casts a spell on
many who visit this charming yet
confounding kingdom. Ascend to the
realm of the gods at the mother of
all temples, Angkor Wat, a
spectacular fusion of symbolism,
symmetry and spirituality. Descend
into the hell of Tuol Sleng and come
face to face with the Khmer Rouge
and its killing machine. Welcome to
the conundrum that is Cambodia: a
country with a history both
inspiring and depressing, an
intoxicating place where the future
is waiting to be shaped.
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Just as Angkor is more than its wat,
so too is Cambodia more than its
temples. The chaotic yet charismatic
capital of Phnom Penh is a hub of
political intrigue, economic
vitality and intellectual debate.
All too often overlooked by
hit-and-run tourists ticking off
Angkor on a regional tour, the
revitalised city of Siem Reap is
finally earning plaudits in its own
right thanks to a gorgeous riverside
location, a cultural renaissance,
and a dining and drinking scene to
rival the best in the region. And
don’t forget the rest of the
country: relax in the sleepy seaside
town of Kampot and trek the nearby
Bokor National Park; take an
elephant ride in the jungles of
Mondulkiri Province; ogle the Mekong
dolphins at Kratie or simply choose
a beach near Sihanoukville.
The years of fear and loathing are
finally over and Angkor is once more
the symbol of the nation, drawing
pilgrims from across the globe.
Peace has come to this beautiful yet
blighted land after three decades of
war, and the Cambodian people have
opened their arms to the world.
Tourism has well and truly taken
off, yet a journey here remains an
adventure as much as a holiday.
Contemporary Cambodia is the
successor state to the mighty Khmer
empire, which, during the Angkor
period, ruled much of what is now
Laos, Thailand and Vietnam. The
remains of this empire can be seen
at the fabled temples of Angkor,
monuments unrivalled in scale and
grandeur in Southeast Asia. The
traveller’s first glimpse of Angkor
Wat, the ultimate expression of
Khmer genius, is simply staggering
and is matched by only a few select
spots on earth, such as Machu Picchu
or Petra.
Siem Reap and Phnom Penh may be the
heavyweights, but to some extent
they are a bubble, a world away from
the Cambodia of the countryside.
This is the place to experience the
rhythm of rural life and timeless
landscapes of dazzling rice paddies
and swaying sugar palms. Spend some
time in the srok (provinces), as
Cambodians call them, enjoying a dar
leng (walkabout) to discover the
true flavour of the country.
The south coast is fringed by
tropical islands, with barely a
beach hut in sight. The next Ko
Samui or Gili Trawangan awaits
discovery and, for now, visitors can
play Robinson Crusoe. Inland from
the coast lie the Cardamom
Mountains, part of a vast tropical
wilderness that provides a home to
elusive wildlife and is the gateway
to emerging ecotourism adventures.
The mighty Mekong River cuts through
the country and is home to some of
the region’s last remaining
freshwater dolphins; cyclists or
dirt bikers can follow the river’s
length as it meanders through
traditional communities. The
northeast is a world unto itself,
its wild and mountainous landscapes
a home for Cambodia’s ethnic
minorities and an abundance of
natural attractions, including
thundering waterfalls and pristine
crater lakes.
Despite this beautiful backdrop,
life is no picnic for the average
Cambodian. It remains one of the
poorest countries in Asia and it’s a
tough existence for much of the
population, as they battle it out
against the whims of nature and,
sometimes, of their politicians.
According to the United Nations
Development Programme (UNDP;
www.undp.org), Cambodia remains
poorer than Mongolia and El
Salvador, just scraping in ahead of
Mauritania, while Transparency
International
(www.transparency.org), the
anticorruption watchdog, rates the
country a lowly 151 out of the 163
countries ranked. Income remains
desperately low for many Khmers,
with annual salaries in the hundreds
of dollars, not thousands, and
public servants such as teachers
unable to eke out a living on their
meagre wages.
Cambodia’s pristine environment may
be a big draw, but much of it is
currently under threat. Ancient
forests are being razed to make way
for plantations, rivers are being
sized up for major hydroelectric
power plants and the south coast is
being explored by leading oil
companies. All this helps add up to
an ever-stronger economy, which is
growing at an incredible 10% a year,
but it’s unlikely to encourage the
ecotourism that is just starting to
develop.
Cambodia is like the teen starlet
who has just been discovered by an
adoring public: everyone wants
something from her but not everyone
wants what is best for her. The
government, long shunned by
international big business, is keen
to benefit from all these newfound
opportunities. Contracts are being
signed off like autographs and there
are concerns for the long-term
interests of the country.
Tourism has brought many benefits to
Cambodia: it provides opportunity
and employment for a new generation
of Khmers, has helped to spark a
rebirth of the traditional arts, and
has given the country a renewed
sense of pride and optimism as it
recovers from the dark decades of
war and genocide. However, not all
tourism has been good for the
country and there is the dark side
of sex tourism, human exploitation
and a casino culture. Cambodia is in
a great position to benefit from the
mistakes of other countries in the
region and follow a sustainable road
to tourism development. However, it
may be that the government is more
focused on the short-term gain that
megabucks investments can provide.
Can Cambodia be all things to all
visitors? So far, so good, but a new
era is about to begin and the
beaches are the next battleground.
There are two faces to Cambodia: one
shiny and happy, the other dark and
complex. For every illegal eviction
of city dwellers or land grab by a
general, there will be a new NGO
school offering better education, or
a new clean-water initiative to
improve the lives of the average
villager. Such is the yin and yang
of Cambodia, a country that inspires
and confounds. Like an onion, the
more layers you unravel, the more it
makes you want to cry, but these are
spontaneous tears, sometimes of
sorrow, sometimes of joy.
Despite having the eighth wonder of
the world in its backyard,
Cambodia’s greatest treasure is its
people. The Khmers have been to hell
and back, struggling through years
of bloodshed, poverty and political
instability. Thanks to an
unbreakable spirit and infectious
optimism, they have prevailed with
their smiles intact; no visitor
comes away from Cambodia without a
measure of admiration and affection
for the inhabitants of this
enigmatic kingdom.
Cambodia: beaches as beautiful as
Thailand but without the tourist
tide; wilds as remote as Laos but
even less explored; cuisine as
subtle as Vietnam but yet to be
discovered; and temples that leave
Burma and Indonesia in the shade.
This is the heart of Southeast Asia,
with everything the region has to
offer packed into one bite-sized
country. If you were only planning
to spend a week in Cambodia, it’s
time to think again.
Travel Alert:
Landmines are still a real danger in
Cambodia, with up to six million
live mines dotted around the
countryside and near the border with
Thailand. Stick to the beaten track
- even at Angkor. Check Safe Travel
for details.
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